by Louis Kalonji, Kinshasa, Congo-RDC, July 1997
THEME = CULTURE
The city of Kinshasa is built on a vast plain. To the south and south-east there are mountains, part of the Crystal Mountain chain. The highest peak in the chain is called "Mangengenge" and can be seen from a long way off. Even far away it's an impressive sight with its white slopes.
You can get to this mountain (about 10 km from N'Djili Airport), by starting off from St. Angèle de Mérici's parish, situated on the outskirts of the city. On the wall of the presbytery there's a sign, pointing the way. The mountain lies about 6km from there. 2km after the parish there are no more houses, only bush countryside. The closer you get to the mountain, the easier it is to appreciate its enormous size and its rugged outline. The summit stands at 718 metres and a large cross has been erected there. The mountain gets its name from the dazzling appearance of its cliffs. The name "Mangengenge" comes from the Lingala word "Kongenge" meaning "dazzling".
According to traditional belief, Mangengenge is the dwelling place of malicious spirits and this has always frightened Kinshasa's inhabitants. But these days, the mountain offers an exceptional setting for all those who need a bit of peace and quiet, and a place for people to "recharge their spiritual batteries". How has this come about? Until 1886, the mountain was called "Mabangu" or "Manguele". In 1887 it was renamed "Mense Mountain" or "Mense Peak". This was in honour of the German doctor Carl Mense, who, together with the Swede Hans von Schwerin, were the first to climb it in October 1887. The two explorers made it to the highest point and afterwards wrote a graphic description of how the mountain looked at that time - cone-shaped, covered in trees, with a whole sequence of white cliffs, 30-40 metres high. Not much has changed today.
The name "Mense Peak" featured on all the area maps of Stanley-Pool. The first was published in 1901 by Hubert Droogman, Secretary-General of the Finance Department of the Congo Free State.
The name "Mangengenge" is used today, thanks to a number of Kinshasa publications which have popularised it. For example, La Croix du Congo (July 1949) published an article called "A journey on the river". The author expressed his admiration for the magnificent "Mangengenge" cliffs, situated on the river's right bank. Anyone passing by for the first time had to execute a dance on deck!
Another author, Pierre Mbaya, said that because people believed the area to be inhabited by spirits, anyone passing by for the first time, had to dance in honour of the spirits, otherwise they would fall ill. He said that travellers would throw valuable objects or money in the direction of the mountain, in order to appease the spirits of the ancestors. Because of this tradition, a Congolese playwright, Albert Mongita, wrote a play in 1956 called "Mangengenge". (A play which, incidently, condemned these practices).
In the Bantu tradition, the colour white (in Lingala "mpembe") is frequently associated with the world beyond ours, where the spirits of our ancestors dwell. So it is understandable that because the cliffs are white, Mangengenge is thought to be the place where the spirits dwell.
Cardinal Frédéric Etsou, the present Archbishop of Kinshasa, was the one who took the initiative to make the mountain a place where people can go to renew their spiritual life.
He undertook the climb of Mount Mangengenge himself for the first time, on 11 April 1992, together with Father Palméro, parish priest of St. Angèle de Mérici's parish. It was no easy climb and took a lot out of the Cardinal. Having arrived at the summit, the Cardinal celebrated Holy Mass on the altar erected before the cross. During the homily, the Cardinal appealed to all those who sought spiritual refreshment, to come to this place.
Many Christians, more than a million already, have now come to pray on the mountaintop. Since March 1997, Congo RDC (formerly Zaire) has been going through a time of trial and tribulation. Whole parishes and Christian communities have climbed the mountain to pray on the summit. There they make the Stations of the Cross in honour of Our Lord's sufferings. Father Palméro erected the Stations which recall the different moments of Christ during His way of the cross, His crucifixion and His death. They are a reminder to each and everyone of what our Saviour did for us - a source of strength as people seek to develop and strengthen their Christian lives. More than anything, the Mangengenge pilgrimage is an act of penance, of renewal. Climbing the mountain, the pilgrim is reminded of Christ's sacrifice.
Once the pilgrim arrives at the summit, there's a fantastic view over Kinshasa. But what is more important - the pilgrim has come from Kinshasa and now fortified and strengthened, returns to the city, determined to witness to Christ.
Physically speaking, descending the mountain is quicker than climbing it. But there's another "angle". Having climbed the mountain and met the Lord, the pilgrim is stirred into action and sent on mission.
Mangengenge's message is one of courage and effort. The pilgrim realises that it is no easy matter to remain steadfast in one's faith and an effort is needed to say "no" to mediocrity in all its forms.
Both these elements are present in the ascent of Mount Mangengenge.
END